You're homework for this week is to share with everyone three things you love about your dog, and 1 thing you'd like to work on. You get an extra week for this one since next week is our off week. Be specific about the thing you'd like to work on, and I'll spend my "off week" giving everyone tips on those behaviors or problems that each of you would like to work on.
Don't forget the training challenge for this month!
Happy Training!
Hi Alyson,
ReplyDeleteHere are 3 things we love about Kona. Although, how in the world do we just pick only 3 things...we love everything about him!
1. My husband likes how obedient he is to him. Apparently, I'm too nice...
2. His size and big floppy ears. He's absolutely adorable and handsome.
3. We love that he's a total clown. He has such a funny personality and we love the funny things that he does. Oh and his burps...he has the very best dog burps.
One thing we would like to work on with Kona...
I say dancing...but my husband vetoed that. He says Kona needs to work on would be his willingness to listen and work when distracted by other dogs...especially dogs that are reactive to him or that he reacts to.
Thanks!
Hi AJ,
DeleteYou're complaint is a common one so I'm including a couple of my favorite approaches, but one thing that is important to keep in mind for all three is that you must keep your dog under threshold while they're learning.
What does that mean? Well, most of the time it means distance, a distance at which your dog notices their trigger but does not overreact to it (barking, lunging, etc.) to be more exact. This is so important because if your dog is over threshold, they're incapable of learning what you want them to learn.
Keep in mind here that it's not uncommon to have a dog that starts out at a distance of 300 yards or more and you realize that this isn't the easiest thing in the world to deal with.
After you've identified your triggers and have a good idea of your dog's threshold you can do one or more of the things below.
Look at That (LAT)aka Click the Trigger
This is a fairly simple approach that we use often in class. You click, when your dog notices the thing that bothers them at a distance, and follow with a treat as you would for any other click.
Behavior Adjustment Training (BAT)
One of my all time favorites for fearful and reactive dogs because it helps them make better choices! Organized by fellow dog trainer, Grisha Stewart, who has a great book out on the subject, the basics are similar to LAT, but with a twist. You wait for your dog to offer a "calming signal" (starting at an appropriate distance of course), mark that with a click or a "Yep!" and then, happily jog away from the trigger with your dog and feed them a treat or play with a toy briefly.
The ability to work and stay calm are dependent upon your dog feeling comfortable in the situation, and that takes some regular work. This summer I'll be offering a BAT setups class, which will require a special orientation but will otherwise function the same way as our other classes with a focus on dog reactivity.
Thanks for the info on reactivity Alyson, always helpful. And by the way, we love Kona's burps too. ;-)
ReplyDeleteThree things we love about Layla are:
1 - Her ability to make us laugh; Layla is such a goof and does the cutest/strangest/most random things that we will live ten times longer for all our laughter.
2 - Her affection; Layla is the best snuggler! We spoil her too much by allowing her on the couch and bed, but it is purely for selfish reasons, we just can't resist a good snuggle and a few face kisses.
3 - Her willingness to trust us; Layla came to us very fearful and seemingly afraid to attach, but she has shown such a desire to please and will do things we ask of her even though she's scared just because we asked. She is always looking to us for guidance and has come a long way.
One thing we would like to work on with Layla (since reactivity is already taken ;-) is a strong recall. Hopefully even strong enough to resist temptations like chasing bunnies. ;-)
Hi Jessica,
ReplyDeleteRecall is another behavior that I have a few favorite ways to train.
#1 - The Nose Touch Recall. My very favorite and possibly one of the more reliable recall. First your dog must know and respond to their name by checking in (looking at you). This is easily achieved by playing the name game. Name = treat in the name game, so if you say your dog's name and they're new to the game, or need some work on knowing their name start out close to your dog and as soon as you've said their name (and not a moment before) present a treat right in front of their nose.
The nose touch part is easy to, all of us have practiced in class. You're dog touches their nose to your hand (how ever you've chosen to hold it), and when they do they get a click and a treat. Gradually build up your distance and distractions and boom, you're dog will look at you when you say their name, and come running when you give them the cue to "touch".
#2 - Move away from your dog. In this game, you toss a treat on the floor for your dog to eat when she's close to you. While she's eating take a couple of steps backwards, when she moves to follow you CLICK and drop another treat on the floor at your feet and repeat the process over again. Gradually build up the distance that you're dog need to move to get to you, and then slowly add distractions. When your dog catches on and follows you immediately 80% of the time, you're ready to add your cue. My favorite cue for recall is "Here!" because I think that it's easier to sound cheerful when calling "Here!" than when calling "Come!" but that's just me, use whatever cue works for you.
#3 - Emergency Recall. For this recall you teach a special word or sound (like a whistle), and it's pure classical conditioning. Place treats in various (out of doggie reach) places throughout your house, when you're near them with your dog say your word or make your sound and immediately after present a treat one at a time one right after the other for 5-15 treats (they should be really yummy, special treats). Repeat often, once you can see them respond to their special word or sound, start to add a little bit of distance at a time. Make sure that your word or sound is not something that your dog will hear often, and don't use it without getting a treat.
Hope that helps! Recall is a very important behavior (obviously) and should be practiced often throughout your dog's lifetime.